Protection tailored to what you drive. PPF, tint and ceramic coating for the most popular cars on Melbourne roads, and any car not listed.
Soft factory paint, worth protecting early. PPF from $800+GST.
Film, coating and tint for the Model 3.
Soft EV paint on a new premium brand, protect it early.
From a 3 Series to an M-car.
A-Class to AMG.
Protection built for a hard-working ute.
RS3 and the rest of the range. Built to be driven, worth protecting.
Sealion 7 and the range. Soft EV paint, protect it early.
Sportage and the range. Family SUVs earn their chips.
MX-5, CX-5 and more. Soul Red loves a coating.
HiLux, RAV4, Corolla and more.
Do not see your car? We protect every make and model. Tell us what you drive and Henry will tailor a cost-effective package for it.
Paint protection is not one job repeated on different badges. The car decides how the work is done, and an installer who treats a Model Y the same as a HiLux will get one of them wrong. Here is what we are actually reading when an owner tells us what they drive.
Factory clear coats are not equal. A lot of EVs, Teslas and the newer Chinese brands among them, leave the line with a softer, thinner clear that marks easily during a normal wash. German metallics tend to run harder and take correction well. Japanese clears sit somewhere in between, and some reds and blacks are notoriously soft regardless of who built them. Soft paint is the strongest argument for getting film on early, before the swirls are already in there, because correcting paint under film is work you only want to pay for once.
This is the part nobody talks about and it is where the install is won or lost. A flat bonnet is straightforward. A deeply curved bumper with tight returns around a sensor housing is not. Film has to be wrapped into the edge and tucked, not trimmed flush at the panel line, or it lifts in a year. Cars with a lot of body sculpting, complex bumper intakes or blind-spot sensor cutouts simply take longer, and an honest quote reflects that rather than hiding it.
A ute that tows and runs gravel roads has a different risk profile to a weekend coupe. On a Ranger or a HiLux the money belongs on the front end and the rocker panels, where the stones actually land. On a garaged performance car, a full front or full body makes more sense. On a family SUV doing school runs and the Eastern Freeway, a partial front covers most of what will ever hit it. We would rather put an owner on the smaller package that suits the car than sell a full body wrap that does not.
A car that lives outside in Melbourne collects tree sap, bird droppings and UV in a way a garaged car does not. That pushes the answer toward a ceramic coating over the film, or over the bare paint on the panels the film does not cover, because the easier a car is to wash the less often it gets scrubbed. It also pushes toward ceramic window tint, which is doing heat work on the interior rather than just making the glass darker.
None of this changes the starting price. PPF starts at $800 + GST whatever the badge on the bonnet. What changes is how long the car takes and how much of it is worth covering, and that is the conversation rather than a number off a chart. Our Melbourne PPF cost guide sets out how the tiers work.
Both approaches are legitimate and we use each where it belongs. A pre-cut pattern from the software library is fast, repeatable and never puts a blade anywhere near your paint, which is why we use it on common panels. But patterns are drawn to a tolerance, and on some cars they finish a few millimetres short of an edge that should be wrapped. Where that happens we cut and wrap by hand so the film goes around the edge rather than stopping on the face of the panel. An installer who only ever uses one method is working to their convenience rather than the car.
Often yes, and for a different reason than people expect. On a $150,000 car you are protecting a big resale number. On a $40,000 car you are protecting the front bumper, and a front bumper respray plus blending into the guards is real money on any car. A partial front from $800 + GST is frequently cheaper than the repair it prevents. What we would not do is talk the owner of a well-used commuter into a full body wrap. Tell us honestly what the car is and what you have to spend and we will say if it is worth it.
Two reasons, one real and one circumstantial. The real one is that several EV makers run a softer, thinner factory clear coat, so the paint marks more easily in normal washing and shows swirls sooner. The circumstantial one is that EVs are mostly new cars, and new cars are when protection is cheapest to do well because there is nothing to correct first. A three year old EV is not a lost cause, it just needs the paint sorted before anything goes over it.
No. The pages here are the cars we are asked about most, not the cars we can do. We have wrapped and coated everything from work utes to weekend track cars, and the process is the same regardless. If you drive something unusual, send a couple of photos with your enquiry, because the panel shapes tell us more about the job than the model name does.
Film stops physical damage, coating makes the car easier to keep clean. They do different jobs, so the honest answer depends on what is bothering you. If your complaint is stone chips on the bonnet and bumper, that is film. If your complaint is that it takes an hour to wash and water spots the next morning, that is coating. If you want both, the film goes on first and the coating goes over the top, including over the panels the film does not cover. Doing it in that order means the coating is never cut into or peeled off later.
Tell us your car and what you are after, and we will send back an honest quote.
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